Mala Sichuan

You have to time your visit to this original Mala Sichuan outpost. Go either before/after the dinner rush, or expect to wait a half hour or more before you're seated. Granted, the newer, swankier, Montrose location is less crowded and more subdued. But we actually enjoy the buzz that the Chinatown location emits. Its energy mirrors the myriad of vibrant dishes parading out the kitchen. A great starter are the tendrils of homemade dan dan noodles tossed with ground pork and spinach, coated with tingly, numbing Sichuan peppers. A cold Tsingtao beer calms the palate and prepare us for the stir-fried, red chile-fueled, cumin lamb (an off-the-menu item that we never seem to tire of), eggplant in spicy garlic sauce, spicy crispy chicken, dried tofu with pork and garlicky baby bok choi.