Restaurant Road Trips

The New York Times recently referred to Houston as “one of the great eating capitals of America.” That’s no surprise to locals. However, sometimes we forget the dining gems hidden in small towns just a short road trip away.

Brenham: 96 West

Traveling northwest on Highway 290, the landscape begins to change in Chappell Hill, with green hills and ranches greeting drivers just east of Brenham. While known for Blue Bell ice cream, historic Brenham is also home to 96 West, a tapas/fusion wine and craft beer restaurant on the downtown square.

The sleek interior of cedar wood, steel and leather feels like a trendy bar on Austin’s 6th Street, but 96 West’s friendly service and modern comfort food create a hometown feel.

A meat lover’s cravings are fed with simple offerings such as Flat Iron Steak and mashed potatoes or barbecue pork flanked with mozzarella and provolone cheeses. But for the more widely branching palate, 96 West does not disappoint. Start with the tapas offerings, such as the Home Sweet Farm Market artisan cheese plate and Texas Akaushi beef sliders, paired with wine; the Cabernet house wine is especially smooth.

From there, try the 8-ounce airline chicken breast, a breast with the drumette attached, stuffed with spinach and artichokes. The tart artichoke complements the silky spinach to create a balanced stuffing. And, for dessert, consider the Meyer Lemon Pound Cake. Made with local Meyer lemons and cornmeal from the family-run Richardson Farms near Cameron, Texas, the cake celebrates tart and sweet. Craft beers, flatbreads, soups, salads and a Sunday brunch round out the experience at 96 West. 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Wed.-Sat.; 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sun., 103 South Baylor St., Brenham, 979-421-8388. 96west.com. $$

Burton: Brazos Belle

About 15 minutes farther north from Brenham in the rolling hills of Burton is Brazos Belle. Since 1993, this authentic Country-French restaurant has thrived in the former cotton-farming town in Washington County. Chef Andre Delacroix and his wife Sandy welcome weekend diners to try his classic French techniques emphasizing lighter ingredients like herbs and red wine over butter and heavy cream.

Brazos Belle’s setting is reminiscent of a quaint country farmhouse outfitted with wooden, small tables and French-inspired community tables. Walk up the steps to a long front porch that was originally the first home to the Burton Farmers Cooperative. That farming tradition continues, as Chef Delacroix grows his own herbs and seasonal vegetables. He frequents area markets each week to hand select vegetables grown locally.

Their menu is classically simple and reasonably priced. I suggest ordering their Steak au Poivre Vert. My center-cut of filet mignon was tender, with a perfect deep red center of medium temperature. The chef makes his own peppercorn sauce. A nice choice of salads and appetizers is offered, as well as an ample wine selection. If you are a fan of spicy foods, try the French Country Pâté served with Dijon mustard. Desserts include chocolate mousse with fresh orange sauce and peach melba topped with Blue Bell ice cream.

Brazos Belle is open only on Friday, Saturday and Sunday, so this is the perfect restaurant road trip, especially when combined with an afternoon of antique shopping at some of the area treasures. 5:30-8:30 p.m. Fri. & Sat.; 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m. Sun., 600 Main St., Burton, 979-289-2677. brazosbellerestaurant.com. $$-$$$

Richmond: Italian Maid Cafe

If driving south is on your horizon, the family-owned Italian Maid Cafe in historic downtown Richmond should not be missed for lunch or dinner. The quaint café, housed in a turn-of-the-century building, is decorated with a traditional and casual Italian flair. Wine bottles and local memorabilia adorn the walls, but the food is the real attraction here.

Try some pasta dishes, such as eggplant parmesan layered with homemade ragu (meat-based sauce) or the beef lasagna with just the right amount of red wine and ragu. Homemade garlic bread is presented to the table as soon as you are seated. All desserts are made from scratch by Chef Alex Ciocca. Try the Italian cream cake. Be sure to ask your server about the daily dessert selections. To walk off your meal, enjoy a stroll around the downtown antique shops and other local stores. 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Mon.-Wed..; 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Thurs.-Sat., 300 Morton St., Richmond, 281-344-8955. italianmaidcafe.com. $$

El Campo: Prasek’s Hillje Smokehouse

Continue your drive a little deeper south and stop at Prasek’s Hillje Smokehouse in El Campo. For many, this one stop for food, gas and gifts is a destination. Opened in 1974 as a grocery store by Mike and Betty Jo Prasek, this large local country store specializes in smoked products. Prasek’s is also a bakery, specialty meat market, gift shop, ice cream parlor and restaurant.

Daily lunch specials at The Big H Grill are the big draw, served in a cafeteria-style setting. Pumpkin Seed Crusted Chicken, tender and juicy with a crunchy crust and butter sauce, is served with Prasek’s sausage jambalaya. Prasek’s sausage, smoked using the same family recipe for over 40 years, offers a spicy taste and crispy texture. You might try their version of King Ranch Chicken. Gourmet sandwiches include pork served with sweet potato fries or an Italian sub sandwich. But it was the barbecue plate of tender meats that I devoured. Burgers, steaks and salads round out Prasek’s huge menu. Before leaving, browse the store for goodies such as peppered turkey jerky, Pigs in a Blanket and other smoked treats, sweets or regional souvenirs.

For those of you who want to enjoy Prasek’s locally, Houston’s River Oaks Doughnuts, 2601 Westheimer, features Prasek’s sausage in their tasty kolaches. 7 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 7 a.m.-9 p.m. Fri.; 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Sat.; 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun., 29714 US-59, El Campo, 979-543-8312. praseks.com. $

The Collard Cabin, built in 1834, is the setting for fine road-trip dining at The Homestead on 19th. (Photo: Luciano Rodriquez)

Huntsville: The Homestead on 19th

Road tripping north on the I-45 corridor toward Dallas generally bypasses the many small towns along that route. However, should you venture off to U.S. 75 (the old Dallas highway), you will be detoured through the charming and quaint centers of towns such as Buffalo, Fairfield, Madisonville, Centerville and Huntsville. The Homestead on 19th is located in the center of Huntsville adjacent to Sam Houston State University. Housed in one of Huntsville’s oldest surviving homes, and a local favorite since 1995, The Homestead specializes in fresh seafood and steaks served with whiskey butter. The cabin was built in 1834 by German immigrant and Texas Revolution soldier Lemuel Collard. This casual and historic setting, with friendly service, is a gentle reminder that we are deep in the heart of Texas.

At dinner, the quality steak offerings include a traditional tenderloin filet and a creative mozzarella- and garlic-stuffed filet. One of the chef’s specials is a bone-in, honey mustard-glazed pork loin chop. Leaving the bone in creates a tender experience, and the honey-mustard glaze brings just the right amount of sweet flavor to the perfectly prepared loin chop, accompanied by apple demi-glace, applesauce, mashed potatoes and sautéed seasonal vegetables.

This comfort food is worth the drive. The Homestead also hosts cooking classes, as well as special dinners, including an annual Messina Hof Vintner’s Dinner. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Wed.-Sat.; dinner served at 5 p.m. Wed.-Sat., 1215 19th St., Huntsville, 936-291-7366. homesteadon19th.com. $$-$$$

These are just a sampling of some dining destinations a short drive from Houston. Other popular ones to consider are Royers Cafe and Royers Pie Haven in Round Top and Volare Italian Restaurant in Brenham. The Inn at Dos Brisas in Chappell Hill is the only Forbes 5-star restaurant in Texas that is not in a major city.

No road-tripping story would be complete without Galveston. Read Andria Frankfort’s Going to Galveston: BOI Buzz residents share fave spots, from July 2015.