Exploring Heritage: A Houston Family’s Malaysian Odyssey

For Sam Lo and Eileena Wee, natives of Malaysia who moved from New York to Houston in 2008, their annual summer trips to Malaysia with their children, Corinne, 14 and Conan, 11, are more than just vacations. These journeys are a profound return to their roots, offering their children the chance to experience their heritage firsthand. 

They’ve been taking the kids to Malaysia nearly every summer since they were very young, explained Sam, a radiologist at MD Anderson Cancer Center. In part, they feel it's important for them to connect with their culture and family back home. “I wanted to raise kids who are adaptable… Malaysia is super diverse, and the country thrives on that.” 

This year, the family embarked on an unforgettable adventure on the island of Borneo in East Malaysia, spending five days in the state of Sabah. Borneo, an island shared by Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei, is renowned for its biodiversity and rich cultural tapestry. “Visiting Sabah has always been on my bucket list,” said Sam. “It’s a place I've always wanted to explore because of its natural beauty and unique cultural heritage.”

Conan, Eileena, Corinne, and Sam (from left) breathe in the ancient rainforest magic from the Canopy Walk at Poring Hot Spring, a suspended 575-foot walkway nearly 200 feet above the lush forest floor.

Cultural immersion in Sabah

The family's journey began in Kota Kinabalu (KK), the capital of Sabah. They flew in from Kuala Lumpur, where Eileena and the kids had spent three weeks with Eileena's family while Sam had been working. Then Sam flew in and joined them. 

“We decided to have a private guided tour to maximize our experience,” Sam said. Their adventure kicked off with a taste of local cuisine at Borenos, a popular fried chicken spot, followed by a sunset dinner cruise along the coast of KK, offering breathtaking views of the South China Sea.

Corinne celebrated her 14th birthday on the cruise, marked by a serenade from a live band complete with a cake, a surprise performance organized by her mother. “It was a bit embarrassing, but very memorable,” she admitted.

Conan and Corinne at Tamparuli Town, where locals hosted captivating performances featuring traditional musical instruments like bamboo flutes and gongs.

The next day, the family ventured into the mountains of Sabah, stopping at small towns like Tamparuli. They explored wet markets, a hallmark of local culture where indigenous people sell unique produce and handcrafted goods. 

“We saw fruits and vegetables we've never seen before,” Eileena marveled. “They even had a brown-colored mango called ‘wild mango’ that looked like a coconut and tasted sour. It was used to make pickles.”

One of the highlights was their visit to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kinabalu Park, at the base of Mount Kinabalu, one of Southeast Asia’s highest peaks. Here they explored the botanical garden, home to a plethora of rare orchids and other native plants. “Seeing orchids in their natural habitat was incredible,” said Eileena. 

A particularly exquisite species endemic to Mount Kinabalu is the Paphiopedilum dayanum. According to local tour guides, when this rare orchid is encountered on the mountain, it is enclosed in a cage to prevent theft.

Their adventure continued with a hike to the Poring Hot Spring and a canopy walk on hanging suspension bridges through the treetops of the rainforest, 200 feet above the forest floor. “I was terrified the whole walk,” admitted Corinne.

Sunset view from Shangri-La Hotel.

The canopy walk was followed by a hike to a local waterfall, and then an unforgettable lunch of traditional Sabahan cuisine, with many of the ingredients coming from the local forest: fried banana and papaya flowers, with chicken seasoned with wild local ginger.

Less appetizing but equally memorable was Conan’s bucket-list request. He wanted to see the world’s largest flower, the rafflesia, also known as the stinking corpse lily because of the rank odor the plant emits as a lure for the flies that pollinate it. It’s not easy to see in bloom because the plant is hard to cultivate and only blooms once every two years, and then the bloom only lasts a few days. 

Fortunately, the day they were visiting Poring Hot Spring, a nearby villager had one blooming on his farmland, and he put a sign out on the road. The flowers of this plant can grow to four feet in diameter and weigh up to 20 pounds. This one was nearly 2 and a half feet across. 

Lucky to get a rare glimpse of the world's largest flower, the rafflesia, on a farm near Poring Hot Spring.

Highlights from the rest of Malaysia

While their recent trip focused on Borneo, the family also cherishes their experiences across the rest of Malaysia over the years. “Every visit to Malaysia is an opportunity to explore different regions and discover new places,” Eileena explained.

Long known as a crossroads of trade between China, India, and Europe, Malaysia boasts a rich fusion of cultures. Both Eileena and Sam are Chinese Malaysians, belonging to the country’s second-largest ethnic group. The Malays, who are the largest ethnic group, form over half of the Malaysian population and are predominantly Muslim. There is also a significant Indian community, comprising about 10 percent of the population. 

Additionally, Malaysia is home to a diverse range of indigenous peoples, collectively known as Orang Asli. In East Malaysia, especially in the states of Sabah and Sarawak, indigenous groups make up a significant portion of the population, with over 39 different ethnic groups in Sabah alone. These indigenous cultures, including the Iban, Kadazan-Dusun, and Orang Ulu, contribute to Malaysia’s rich cultural tapestry and are a source of national pride.

Yap Kongsi Temple in George Town, capital of Penang, located within the George Town Heritage Enclave, the core zone of the George Town UNESCO World Heritage Site.

From the moment the family lands and greets Eileena’s parents at the airport, the sights and sounds and tastes open a whole new world. “The food is amazing,” Corinne said. Among her favorites are the char kway teow, a savory stir-fried noodle dish, and nasi lemak, a fragrant rice cooked in coconut milk and sambal, a delicious chili paste. Another is char siu wonton mee, a noodle dish popular at roadside hawker stalls or in kopitiam (coffee shops). In this version, the wonton noodles are tossed with a dark sauce and topped with boiled wontons or fried wontons, char siu (barbecued pork) and green leafy bok choy sum.

The family loves to go island hopping, snorkeling, exploring and relaxing on the many white-sand beaches. One of their favorite destinations is Penang, featured in the film Crazy Rich Asians. The state is known for its rich cultural heritage and culinary delights, with a vibrant blend of the old and the new. Penang features pristine beaches and rainforests, a bustling city and an island of the same name, with the UNESCO-listed colonial capital of George Town at its heart. 

“Penang is a food paradise,” commented Eileena. “Roadside vendors serve some of the world's best street food!”

"Little Children on a Bicycle" mural, Armenian Street, George Town.

For those who love diving, Sipadan Island in Sabah is among the world’s top dive sites. Only 30 acres, the island is covered with pristine rainforest. The amazing abundance of marine life found in Sipadan inspired Jacques Cousteau to feature it in a film in 1988, catapulting the island to international fame. The island was selected as one of the finalists for the New Seven Wonders of Nature in 2009 due to its exceptional marine biodiversity, unique geological formation, and significant conservation efforts.

The family is Buddhist, so they enjoy visiting the Buddhist temples, such as the Kek Lok Si Temple in Penang and Thean Hou Temple in Kuala Lumpur. They also look forward to celebrating the festivals of other cultures, such as Hari Raya, which marks the end of Ramadan. During this time, Muslims in Malaysia, including Eileena’s friends, host open houses, inviting people over to share in the festivities. They dress in traditional Malay attire and visit each other's homes to share the celebration of Hari Raya.

Zahir Mosque in Kedah, built in 1912.

A deep connection to Malaysian culture

The recent trip to Sabah, like all their trips to Malaysia, was not just about adventure but also about deepening their connection to Malaysian culture. In Kota Kinabalu, they visited the Mari Mari Cultural Village, where they learned about the five major indigenous tribes of Sabah. 

“It was fascinating to see how these tribes lived and to participate in some of their traditional activities,” said Eileena. From blowpipe shooting to rice-wine tasting, the family experienced local dances, music, and traditional foods, enriching their understanding of Malaysia's diverse cultural heritage. 

Reflecting on their trip, Corinne and Conan were particularly struck by the cultural differences between East and West Malaysia. “It was like stepping into a different country,” said Corinne. “The traditions, food, and way of life in Sabah are so distinct from what we're used to in Kuala Lumpur.”

For Sam and Eileena, these trips are about more than just sightseeing. They are a way to instill a sense of identity and heritage in their children. “We want them to appreciate where we come from and understand the rich cultural tapestry that makes up Malaysia,” said Sam.

As they plan their next visit, the family is already thinking about new adventures. Conan, for his part, is determined to climb Mount Kinabalu next year. The rest of the family, while not quite disposed to take on the two-day alpine adventure, are ready to cheer him on. 

In sharing their Malaysian odyssey, the family hopes to inspire others to explore this vibrant country. 

“Whether you like beaches or mountains or cities, Malaysia has it all,” said Eileena. “From the ultra-modern skyscraper-filled capital Kuala Lumpur to artistic streets of Penang to gorgeous beaches of Langkawi to the scenic tea-gardens-carpeted hill town of Cameron Highlands, there is no end of things to do and see in Malaysia.”

The popular Pulau Redang, or Redang Island, situated off the coast of Terengganu, is a favorite retreat.

Tips from Our Travelers

Worth the splurge: Private guided and all-inclusive tours. It will be more personalized and suited to your schedule. We engaged with Amazing Borneo (www.AmazingBorneo.com) – great private tour guides and amazing hospitality! Look for: Sales Manager Anthony Wong at [email protected].

Don’t miss: Mari Mari Cultural Village, and if you are up for it, go for the three-day, two-night Mount Kinabalu adventure!

Favorite restaurants: Fish Market Restaurant – great seafood selections! (5 stars rating on TripAdvisor) in Kota Kinabalu City.

Currency exchange: 1 US Dollar = 4.40 Malaysian Ringgit (as of early Aug. 2024)

Packing: Light, breathable clothes, good walking shoes, hats, swimsuits, and sunscreen. A pair of light jackets might be needed if you are staying at Kinabalu Park. (It’s chilly at night.)

Not really worth the trouble: Poring Hot Spring, Ranau. It was hot and humid after the hike to the Canopy Walkway to dip into the hot spring. Probably it would be more refreshing to have a dip in the waterfall.

What’s one thing that was not on the itinerary but turned out to be great? The viewing of the Rafflesia flower! The Rafflesia blooms only from three to five days. There is no exact blooming season, but it is believed that the rainy season is more favorable. We were lucky to find one in a small village while traveling.