Adventures in Iceland, The Land of Fire and Ice

Iceland, the land of fire and ice, as it’s long been known, offers travelers a landscape that feels ancient and at the same time surreal. For five couples – each with their own approach to adventure – Iceland provided an escape filled with waterfalls, glaciers, and breathtaking natural beauty. From luxury cruises to demanding hikes, these travelers discovered the unexpected in very different ways.

Lily and Shi-tze exploring one of many sparkling ice formations on Diamond Beach, which are the reason for its name.

A Journey Begins

For Kelly and Carmela Frels, Iceland was a post-pandemic dream destination. They were drawn to Iceland in the summer of 2023 by a close friend, Carrin Patman, who had recently been named the U.S. Ambassador to Iceland. Carrin was a former partner of Kelly and his colleague Cliff Gunter at Bracewell LLP; her husband, Jim Derrick, was Kelly’s UT fraternity brother.

“This was on the heels of Covid, so we were looking for someplace to go,” said Kelly. “So it all fit together here for us to be able to go to Iceland." 

The Frels’ travel, arranged through the University of Texas Flying Longhorns alumni travel program, was carefully curated, ensuring they enjoyed Iceland’s sights in comfort.

Cliff and Katie Gunter opted for a cruise aboard the Silversea Silver Spirit. With 590 passengers and 400 crew members, the luxurious cruise ship became their base as they visited multiple Icelandic ports. "We had never been to Iceland or Ireland," Katie shared. "Cliff had traveled all over the world, but these were two places he had not been.” 

Meanwhile, Lily Chen and her husband Shi-tze Lu, along with their friends Christine and Andy Wei, sought a more adventurous itinerary. Traveling in late August 2024, they were eager to hike, explore, and immerse themselves in Iceland's natural wonders. "It's a place that I always hear so much about – how beautiful it is, how amazing it is – so it's been something on my bucket list," said Lily.

Similarly, John Beilue and Michelle Goldberg, celebrating their five-year anniversary in 2019, chose Iceland for its dramatic landscapes and the promise of daily hikes. "We wanted to make a commitment to travel abroad once a year," Michelle explained. "I'm definitely more of an adventure, quieter, nature-seeking type vacation traveler, and I've always been fascinated by Iceland."

John Beilue and Michelle Goldberg wanted to hike a glacier while it is still possible to do so.

A Land of Contrasts

Upon arrival, each couple was struck by Iceland's stark contrasts. Kelly and Carmela marveled at Reykjavik's blend of old and new. "It was reminiscent of Austin in the late 1960s and 1970s," Kelly remarked. 

Cliff and Katie were equally captivated. "It's a beautiful, clean city," Cliff noted. "The people were extremely pleasant. Everybody spoke English, and they were all very friendly." 

Lily and her group began their journey by exploring Reykjavik's famous Rainbow Street and the iconic Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral. "The design is pretty amazing," Lily said. "After we did the visit, we realized why the design is in the columns – because the Cathedral’s rising columns forming the exterior and tower were inspired by Iceland’s landscape."

John and Michelle's adventure started with an unexpected encounter at the airport. Michelle, an avid CrossFit enthusiast, met her personal hero, Annie Thorisdottir, an Icelandic CrossFit champion. "She was super nice and wonderful," Michelle recalled. They were off to a great start.

Colorful Rainbow Street in Reykjavik leading to Hallgrímskirkja Church. (Photo: John Beilue)

The Great Outdoors: Hikes and Natural Wonders

The country, formed entirely by volcanic activity, sits atop the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet. This makes Iceland the only place in the world where you can see the boundary between two major tectonic plates above sea level. The dramatic landscapes, including lava fields, geothermal hot springs, and the Almannagjá gorge at Þingvellir National Park, where the tectonic plates are slowly drifting apart, offered visitors a profound connection to the raw power of nature.

For Lily and her friends, the journey was all about immersing themselves in nature. They rented a car and explored the Golden Circle, visiting Þingvellir National Park, Gullfoss Waterfall, and the geothermal area of Geysir. Lily was particularly enchanted by the Brúarfoss Waterfall. "The water is so … like a minty blue," she described.

One of the highlights for Lily was hiking the Skógafoss waterfall trail. “We climbed up about 527 steps and did the trail for 10 miles,” she said. “That was the most amazing hike. The whole time the scenery was spectacular.”

John and Michelle also embraced Iceland's rugged terrain. They explored the entire island via the Ring Road, tackling challenging trails and experiencing the unfiltered power of nature. At Mývatn, they climbed to the rim of a volcano. "The vertical just to get up to the crater rim was so extreme that our calves were on fire," Michelle recounted.

Their hike on Falljökull, meaning "the falling glacier" because it cascades steeply down the mountainside, was another memorable experience.  "We wanted to do that because they tell us the glacier won't be there for much longer because of climate change," Michelle explained. “So it was kind of a really sad thing, but something we wanted to experience while we could.” Despite the physical demands, they were awed by the glacier's majesty.

Carmela and Kelly Frels at the ridge between the North American and Eurasian Tectonic Plates – the only place in the world where you can see the boundary between two major tectonic plates above sea level.

Close Encounters and Cultural Insights

All five couples shared encounters with Iceland’s unique wildlife and culture. Lily's group visited Heimaey Island, where they were delighted to see puffins returning to their burrows in Stórhöfði, the southernmost point of the island and home to one of the world’s largest puffin breeding colonies. “They are so cute,” Lily said. “We spent a lot of time watching them.”

John and Michelle were amused by the free-roaming sheep that have right of way on the roads. “They warned us when we picked up our rental car that the sheep have crossing rights,” Michelle laughed. “If you hit one, you owe the farmer.”

Kelly and Carmela enjoyed learning about Iceland’s innovative use of natural resources, particularly in geothermal energy and fishing. A discussion with Ambassador Carrin provided insights into Iceland’s geopolitical importance and sustainable practices, deepening their appreciation for the country.

Cliff and Katie Gunter enjoy a drink aboard the Silversea Silver Spirit.

Challenges and Reflections

Traveling in Iceland presented its own set of challenges. Weather was unpredictable and could change very quickly. John and Michelle experienced strong winds atop a volcano that nearly blew Michelle off her feet.

Despite these challenges, the couples found the journey rewarding. “It's the most unique country that we have visited,” Carmela mused. “It's so different. You can’t compare it to any other place that you’ve been.”

John echoed this sentiment. “I was very impressed with all of the raw nature,” he said. “It's very clear that you're on a smaller place in the middle of the North Atlantic, and nature is very much just sort of doing whatever it does around you.”

John and Michelle were amused by the sheep grazing throughout the countryside, learning that Icelandic sheep have specific rights. (Photo: John Beilue)

A Place Worth Returning To

All five couples expressed a desire to return to Iceland. Lily is considering a trip in the wintertime to experience the Northern Lights and ice caves. 

The best time to visit Iceland depends on your priorities. Summer (June to August) offers mild temperatures between 50-60 degrees and nearly 24 hours of daylight – ideal for hiking. Winter (November to February) is colder, with temps around 30-40 degrees, and is perfect for seeing the Northern Lights. Fall and spring provide cooler weather and fewer tourists, with the Northern Lights visible from September through April. If it’s puffins you’re after, puffin season typically runs from late April to mid-August, with the peak viewing time being between June and early August. By mid-August, the puffins start leaving, and they are usually gone by mid-September as they migrate out to sea. 

Katie and Cliff are also hoping to return for a deeper dive into all that Iceland has to offer. “We’d go back in a heartbeat,” Katie said.

Traditional turf houses at Skógar Museum, showcasing Icelandic rural heritage. (Photo: Lily Chen)

Tips From Our Travelers

Katie and Cliff:

Worth the splurge: Our Silversea cruise

Don’t miss: FlyOver Iceland experience – an immersive virtual flight over Iceland’s stunning landscapes, almost like a carnival ride

Favorite restaurant: Apotek

Packing: Must pack with layering in mind

Don’t bring: Dressy clothing

Don’t forget: Lots of dollar bills for tipping

Local favorite: The pubs and hamburgers

Kelly and Carmela:

Don’t miss: Þingvellir National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Iceland's Golden Circle. It’s the only place on Earth where you can walk along the visible rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates, which are usually hidden beneath the Atlantic Ocean.

Not really worth the trouble: Blue Lagoon was nice, but it was pricey, especially considering there are less expensive and less crowded hot springs available in Iceland.

Amazing thing we learned: Iceland creatively utilizes nearly every part of the fish from its fishing industry for everything from supplements and pharmaceuticals to cosmetics and fashion items. Carrin had a tiny and very cute bag made from fish skin, and a poster in the airport pictures a burn victim recovering with fish skin wound dressings.

John and Michelle:

Worth the splurge: Definitely Geosea, the hot spring-fed spa we stopped at on the west side of the country.

Don’t miss: Skóga Trail, the hike up the trail beyond at Skógafoss, and/or one of the many glaciers available for travelers to hike. They are still going away, sadly.

Favorite restaurants: Kaffi Lára in Seyðisfjörður

Currency exchange: When we were there, the exchange rate was $1 = 123.4 Krona. Exchange could be done easily in the capital, possibly difficult anywhere else. That said, credit cards worked well just about anywhere with a connection but remember to tell your creditor/bank you’ll be traveling!

Packing: We lived out of large hiking backpacks, and that made a world of difference to me. More convenient than lugging a suitcase of equivalent size.

Don’t forget: Layers! And waterproof clothing (jackets, slickers, etc. – we both got some thin waterproof pants at REI that were a lifesaver), waterproof hiking boots, and outlet converters. We have a whole kit for converting to European electrical outlets. Important to do some research, as some of their outlets deliver more volts or amps than US equipment is used to, and if not throttled down, this can damage your stuff.

Safety tip: Sneaker waves, or unpredictable, powerful waves that appear suddenly. It is also worth reminding travelers that warnings in general there are more subtle than in the States, so if it looks like there is a rope or a barrier, best not to cross it, as the consequences could be quite dire.

Not really worth the trouble: Food is expensive in Iceland due to so much of it needing to be imported. Outside of the cod and lamb, food won't be the best part of your trip. We have no regrets saving money by eating lots of PB&Js and only eating out once a day. Save your money for more adventures!

Unexpected hit: Geosea spa. Great view, warm water, nice people, wine and beer. Fun time.

Lily Chen and Shi-tze Lu:

Worth the splurge: Sky Lagoon hot spring spa, Hotel Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, The Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon Zodiac Boat Tour. If you love to hike, be sure to climb the 527 steps at Skógafoss and continue along the Waterfall Way Trail for more stunning terrain and waterfalls. While exploring the area, don’t miss Gjáin. If you're visiting Seljalandsfoss, the waterfall that is famous because you can walk under it, make sure to check out nearby Gljúfrabúi, the waterfall hidden inside a gorge. Other highlights include Brúarfoss, Gullfoss, and Diamond Beach, which is just across the road from the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon.

Favorite restaurants: The restaurant in Hotel Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. But we did not eat at any place fancy. We liked Black Crust Pizzeria and the Soup Company, both in Vik.

Don’t forget: Electricity adapters type C or F. But you will also need a converter if what you are plugging can’t handle 230 volts. Warm jackets, waterproof jackets, waterproof pants, hiking shoes/ boots, and waterproof shoes. 

Avoid this local scam: Not exactly a scam, but everyone says you have to try the fermented shark. I think it was the worst food I’ve ever had (Lily).

Safety tip: Due to harsh conditions some roads might be closed. Download the SafeTravel-Iceland app for the road conditions, especially for smaller roads or remote conditions. See En.vedur.is, the Icelandic Meteorological Office, to check weather and Northern Lights predictions. 

Car rental: We used Lotus Car Rental. Others recommended Blue Car rental. Make sure the car is covered with premium insurance due to wind and road hazards. Through Lotus, the premium insurance came with portable WiFi. Make sure to check the tires before leaving the rental cars company. Ours were balding. If you are driving on the F Roads (unpaved gravel roads), you will need a 4x4. 

About the puffins: If your visit is during puffin season, it’s worth taking the ferry to Heimaey Island. It has the largest puffin colony in the world.