David Tanis’ Spring Chicken with Mushrooms and Lemon

We are in the in-between times, that time just before full-fledged spring arrives, when you don’t know whether to wear something warm or something flowery, and when you’re not sure if you should serve a hearty baked pasta or a springy asparagus salad. This might go on until Easter, when you know for sure that white and flowery is the thing to wear while nibbling on radishes and artichokes al fresco.

Until then, here is a delicious chicken that walks the line between warm and filling and springy and light. You could call NYT Cooking columnist and cookbook author David Tanis’ Spring Chicken with Mushrooms and Lemon a lightened-up, brighter version of beef stroganoff, only using chicken. Leeks (which I subbed in for David’s shallots), bunches of herbs, and peas bring the spring. White wine and crème fraiche make a tangy, barely acidic sauce that is hefty but not heavy. I made just a few small tweaks to David’s stellar recipe – you might make a few of your own. 

David Tanis’ Spring Chicken with Mushrooms and Lemon is a delicious, springy dish that could be considered a lightened-up version of beef stroganoff, using chicken. (Photo: Andria Dilling)

David Tanis’ Spring Chicken with Mushrooms and Lemon
Very slightly adapted

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided, plus more as needed
1 pound cremini mushrooms, sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
2 sprigs thyme, plus 1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves
1½ pounds boneless, skinless breasts, cut into ½-inch pieces
¼ cup flour
3 leeks, white part only, sliced thin
1 bay leaf
½ cup dry white wine 
2 cups chicken broth
12 ounces wide egg noodles or wide-cut pasta, for serving
¼ cup crème fraiche
1 cup frozen peas 
2 tablespoons snipped chives
2 tablespoons roughly chopped dill
1 tablespoon roughly chopped mint
3 tablespoons roughly chopped parsley
Zest of 1 lemon

In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. When the butter sizzles, add the mushrooms, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, and 2 sprigs of thyme. Stir, then let the mushrooms brown for about 3 to 4 minutes. Stir again and brown for another 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl, and set aside.

Stir the flour, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper together in a small bowl. Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture, shaking off any excess flour. Add 2 tablespoons butter to the same skillet and turn the heat to medium. When the butter sizzles, add half of the chicken, letting it brown on all sides, about 5 minutes per batch. Remove to a plate, and add the remaining chicken and repeat. Set the chicken aside.

Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in the skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook until they are soft, about 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the bay leaf and the wine, and simmer for about 2 minutes, scraping the skillet to deglaze any browned bits. 

Return the chicken to the skillet and turn the heat to high. Add the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until the chicken is tender and the sauce is reduced, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the noodles in salted water according to the package directions.

Add the reserved mushrooms, crème fraiche, and peas. Cook over medium heat until the sauce has thickened, about 3 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Stir in half of the chopped thyme, chives, dill, mint, parsley, and lemon zest. 

To serve, divide the noodles among 4 plates, spoon the chicken over the noodles, and sprinkle the remaining herbs over top.