Gravlax

In a departure from our regularly scheduled, mostly everyday recipes, let’s talk about gravlax. My sister has been putting out a platter of gravlax (thinly-sliced, cured salmon, that she has made) during our afternoons spent in Dallas at Christmas time. It is what the cousins swarm around, not standing a chance of lasting more than an hour or two. It’s beautiful and delicious and feels special. 

A primer: Lox, as in “lox and bagels,” is thin slices of salmon that has been cured in salt. Smoked salmon – also appropriate on bagels – is just that, thin slices of salmon that have been cured in salt and then cold-smoked. Gravlax is salmon, again thinly sliced, that has been cured in salt, sugar, dill, and other spices. Surprisingly, gravlax is as easy to make as it feels special. A treat to have in place of, or in addition to, a charcuterie board.

While gravlax is Scandinavian – not Jewish – it’s being a cousin of lox or smoked salmon makes it feel right to serve at a Rosh Hashanah luncheon, or as an appetizer before dinner. Rosh Hashanah, the celebration of the Jewish new year, is Tuesday. You have just enough time to make gravlax happen and serve it with toasts, crème fraiche or yogurt, cucumbers… and apples and honey (which are traditional, symbolizing the start of a sweet new year). Delicious and impressive and a fun project to boot.

Gravlax, a thinly-sliced cured salmon, is a satisfying starter for a special meal. (Photo: Andria Dilling)

Gravlax

2 cups kosher salt
2 cups sugar
Zest of 2 oranges
Zest of 2 lemons
Zest of 2 limes
Zest of 2 grapefruit
2 tablespoons juniper berries
1 tablespoon cracked coriander seeds
1 bunch dill, stems and all, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons gin
1 2 to 3 pound fillet of salmon, pin bones removed
Serve with: crackers, toasts, crème fraiche or Greek yogurt sprinkled with zaatar, minced chives, capers, cucumber slices, apple slices, and/or honey

Mix together the salt, sugar, zests, juniper, coriander, dill, and gin. Place the salmon, skin side down, on a large sheet of plastic wrap. Cover the flesh side of the salmon with the salt mixture, making sure to coat it completely. 

Wrap the fish well in plastic wrap and place it in a large baking dish or rimmed sheet pan. Place a smaller baking dish or sheet pan on top of the wrapped fish, and weigh it down with several large cans of tomatoes or beans. Refrigerate for 36 hours or so.

Unwrap the salmon and throw away the first plastic wrap along with the juices that have accumulated. Recover the fish with the salt mixture, and rewrap the cure-covered salmon with new plastic wrap. Place it in the baking dish and weigh it down again. Refrigerate for another 12 to 24 hours. 

Unwrap the salmon and rinse off the cure. Dry with paper towels, then slice the salmon very thinly on the bias. Serve with: crackers or toasts, crème fraiche or Greek yogurt, chives, capers, cucumber slices, apple slices, and/or honey.