David Tanis’ French Potato Salad

Put the potatoes in a large pot, cover with water, salt generously and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to a brisk simmer. Cook for about 30 minutes, until cooked through but firm. (Test with a skewer or paring knife.) Drain.

When the potatoes have cooled enough to handle, but while they are still warm, cut them into thick slices (about ⅜ inch) and place in a large low bowl.

In a small bowl, add the vinegar and mustard, stirring to dissolve. Whisk in the olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour the dressing over the warm sliced potatoes and very gently and briefly toss with your hands, taking care not to break the slices. Sprinkle with a little salt and leave to cool at room temperature.

When the potatoes have cooled, add the tarragon leaves and chives (save some of the herbs for garnish) and very gently toss again. Taste, adjust for salt and toss one more time. The salad should be fairly oily; drizzle with a little more oil if necessary. Serve at room temperature, sprinkled with reserved herbs.