Teppay Japanese Restaurant

The faultlessly fried agedashi tofu in a warm dashi-based broth is topped with shaved bonito flakes.

If the yardstick for Japanese food is sushi and sashimi, then Teppay is serenely fresh, with clean, briny flavors. This intimate nook offers grade-A seafood at reasonable prices, made even more enjoyable by the lack of pretense even when packed with well-heeled diners. Meanwhile, the kitchen in back is plenty busy, churning out a home-kitchen menu that has sustained Japanese families and fans of lacy tempura shrimp and crispy pork katsu for more than a decade. The chawan mushi egg custard with seafood is ethereal, fragrant with real yuzu citrus from the chef’s garden. Come early for dinner; this spot, with its nourishing, opaque, miso-rich broth, fills up quickly.