Levi Goode’s Parisa
There are many versions of this raw delicacy. Chef Levi Goode likes to cold-smoke his beef, which adds another irresistible layer of flavor. This step is optional, so you can skip it if you’re lazy. Read the Chef's Corner by Dai Huynh here.
For garlic-shallot oil: 4-5 garlic cloves, peeled
3-4 shallots, peeled and cut in half
2 sprigs rosemary
5-6 sprigs thyme
2 cups olive oil
For cold-smoked beef:
8 ounces beef tenderloin, butterflied
2 ounces wood chips
For Parisa: (2-inch) thick jalapeños, halved, seeded and minced fine
2 tablespoons shallots, peeled and minced fine
1 ½ teaspoons capers, drained and minced
1 teaspoon serrano chile, roasted, peeled and seeded
2 ¼ teaspoon Creole mustard
1 teaspoon lime zest, grated with a microplane
1 ½ teaspoon sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons Aged White Cheddar Cheese, grated on a box grater, divided
For garnish:
1 tablespoon chives or green onions, sliced thin
1 tablespoon fried crispy red onions or shallots (see note)
5-7 ounces of potato chips (waffle or ridged)
To make garlic-shallot oil, place garlic, shallots, rosemary, thyme, and olive oil in a small saucepan and place over low heat on the stove. Stir occasionally as the oil comes to a simmer. Once the oil simmers, allow the garlic cloves and shallots to cook for 20-30 minutes (or until flavors are infused into the oil). Strain and allow the oil to cool before using. Oil can be made a day in advance before use. Store at room temperature in an air-tight container.
Levi has devised a simple way for the home cook to cold-smoke the beef tenderloin. If you don’t have a smoker, place two ounces of wood chips in water and allow them to soak for 15 minutes. Drain the chips and place them on aluminum foil. Fold the foil sides up to create a “cup.” Place the cup on one side of a large food-safe container, such as a rectangular Pyrex baking dish. Position the beef tenderloin on the opposite side of the baking dish.
Light the wood chips and allow them to smoke for 1-2 minutes. Cover with foil and smoke the meat for 10-15 minutes. Remember: We want to add smoke flavor but not cook the meat. Once smoked, remove beef tenderloin and refrigerate for 30 minutes to make it easier to cut.
Prepare the Parisa in a mixing bowl by adding the smoked beef tenderloin, along with one and a half tablespoons of the garlic-shallot oil, jalapeños, fresh shallots, capers, serrano chile, Creole mustard, lime zest, sherry vinegar, kosher salt, black pepper, and two tablespoons of cheddar cheese. Mix ingredients very gently until they are well combined. Cover with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for five minutes or until thoroughly chilled. Store remaining garlic-shallot oil for another use, such as vinaigrette and stir-fries or to make more Parisa.
Transfer Parisa to a small bowl and garnish with one tablespoon of cheddar cheese, chives or green onions, and crispy red onions or shallots. Serve with waffle or ridged potato chips. Serves 4.
Note: You can find fried shallots and onions at the grocery stores. But if you want to make your own, it’s easy. Peel and slice thin eight shallots. Bring about 11⁄4 cup of vegetable oil in a frying pan to temperature over medium-low heat. Add shallots and stir them often with a fork to encourage rings to separate until shallots are golden brown, about 20-25 minutes. Pour shallots into a strainer to drain and transfer to paper towels, and then season with kosher salt (optional). Fried shallots will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for a week.
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