Mamak is directly across from another favorite, the original Banana Leaf, which introduced many Houstonians to something more adventurous than Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai. Mamak manages to hold its own and even excel in some areas, such as the Indian pancakes, roti canai. They arrive hot and tender, perfect when doused in a rich curry sauce bobbing with bits of potatoes and chicken. Bring friends, as the menu is made for sampling. Perusing the expansive menu, you’ll discover two major influences, Chinese and Indian. But Malaysia’s food culture is also lightly touched by Thai, Dutch and Portuguese, making it complex and diverse. Entrée standouts include the stir-fried beef chow fung noodles and pangan ikan, grilled fish swaddled in banana leaf and anointed with a highly addictive, savory, sweet sauce made with fermented shrimp.