Reversing Roles in Wales: A Mother-Son Road Trip

For years, it was Natalia Cokinos Oakes who drove her young son Leopold through France, Greece, Istanbul, and countless other destinations, checking the rearview mirror to watch him marveling at the sights. On the winding roads of Wales, it was Leopold who glanced sideways to catch his mother’s reactions from the driver's seat.

"She used to take me to the D-Day landings... and she was happy if I was happy," Leopold recalled. "And now here we were doing the same thing, and I was just happy that she was happy."

A legacy of travel

For mother and son, travel had always been their special bond. "We were just a gruesome twosome," Leopold said, "and we really liked to travel together." 

Between ages eight and twelve, Leopold accompanied his mother, now a state district court judge in Houston's Juvenile Court, on ambitious adventures. "Any time for spring break or Thanksgiving breaks or anything, we would do these big trips," he recalled.

Their wanderlust took them across continents. In Istanbul, Natalia gave her young son surprising freedom. "My mom makes jokes about letting me run around the streets at night to go get a kebab," Leopold said, "and she looks back, and she's like, 'I can't believe I let you do that when you were so young.'" 

They explored Japan with his grandmother, and frequented Greece, where they would visit the tiny island of Kythira, staying with family friends from Natalia's time living there.

Leopold takes a peek at another of the many castles in Wales. The castles tend to be integrated into daily life rather than being isolated museums, Natalia noted, saying that they host rock concerts and are "a part of the community."

A new chapter

Their Welsh journey in late July 2024 came about through a combination of celebration and serendipity. Leopold, now 34, had just completed his master's degree at London's Royal College of Arts, and Natalia planned to attend his exhibition. A friend put a bug in her ear about visiting Wales. "Of course," Natalia said. "It's the land of King Arthur.”

They began their journey by taking the train from London to Cardiff, the Welsh capital. There, they discovered a city where ancient and modern seamlessly mixed. The castle dominated the center, but around it spread a vibrant modern city. "They have rock concerts at all these castles," Natalia observed. "They're not an isolated museum. They're incorporated into the life of the community." The city hummed with energy, its streets lined with outdoor cafes, its marina lively with activity, and its promenades filled with people enjoying the seaside air.

From Cardiff, they followed the south coast to Swansea, legendary Welsh poet Dylan Thomas's hometown, where they found a stretch of beach called the Mumbles. Their next stop was Tenby, a darling medieval walled city by the sea. There, they stayed in one of the Victorian homes-turned-hotels that lined the shore. "The rickety floors, you know, some were slanted," Natalia remembered fondly. "It was just very genuine. I loved it." Leopold rose early each morning to jog and swim on the beach while others were just beginning to stir.

Many of the country roads they drove down had no shoulder; instead, they were lined with dense, lush hedgerows, some of which have stood for centuries.

Ancient paths, new discoveries

Wales revealed itself as an undiscovered gem, with Natalia declaring it "the best-kept secret." The landscape enchanted them, with its deep hedgerows creating atmospheric tunnels along the narrow roads. 

"There's no shoulder," Natalia explained. "It's a hedgerow." The dense greenery formed natural walls along their route, occasionally opening to reveal glimpses of the rugged coastline that reminded her of Brittany, with its "craggly and rugged and emerald green" shores.

Their path led them to Fishguard, a small harbor town that served as a gateway to the northern coast. In St Davids, they discovered a town deeply committed to both heritage and innovation. The cathedral drew them in with its carved oak ceiling, and they happened upon an Evensong service. 

"It's like a break in the day, the end of the day," Natalia explained. "It's beautiful and solemn... almost like a meditation, except it's a choir."

The town’s commitment to sustainability impressed them. Restaurants mapped their local suppliers on the walls and offered unique dishes made from foraged ingredients – seaweed brownies, pepper dulce burritos, and even a signature “bug burger.” Natalia learned about seashore foraging walks where visitors could gather “sea spaghetti, lava bread, and truffle-like pepper dulce, which is the caviar of seaweed.”

The Bear Hotel in Crickhowell dates back to 1432. It's located on the town's High Street, named Britain's best in 2018.

Castles and memories

History seemed to rise from every Welsh hillside – “we saw six castles in five days without even trying,” Natalia marveled. In Cardigan, they explored a castle that hosted a medieval art contest where winners received chairs – a high honor in times when only kings and masters had such furniture.

These Welsh castles reminded Leopold of childhood trips, particularly their visit to France's D-Day sites. “My mom, bless her heart, took me through the trenches of Normandy and Verdun,” he recalled. They happened to arrive for a significant anniversary: “We were there June 6th on the 70th anniversary, and the place was just, it was like an invasion. There were all these reenactors and tanks, and it was just incredible... and I'm this little kid, just loving it.”

The road ahead

In Crickhowell, they stayed at The Bear Hotel, which Natalia noted dates back to 1432. The town charmed them with its award-winning High Street, where window boxes overflowed with flowers. Even the pubs had evolved, now calling themselves "gastropubs" and offering elevated versions of traditional fare.

Everywhere they went, they encountered a Wales both ancient and newly assertive of its identity. Road signs appeared first in Welsh – full of consonants that made Natalia wonder if she “was having a stroke or what?” until she realized it was Welsh – then in English. The red dragon flag, created in 1958 as a symbol of Welsh independence, flew proudly.

“I would say my favorite part was being able to take over and drive for my mom,” Leopold said. “I felt like I was the queen’s bodyguard. She didn’t have to do anything except enjoy the view, and take pictures.”

As their Welsh adventure drew to a close, Leopold offered advice to others who might follow in their tire tracks: “To all the sons and daughters, you should be doing this because just, you know, take advantage of it while you have it now.”

The ancient roads of Wales, it seemed, had led this mother and son to rediscover not just a country, but each other, in a whole new way.

Tip from Our travelers

From Leopold Oakes

Worth the splurge: Odd cocktails with seaweed.

Don’t miss: Swimming in the freezing Atlantic. It's good for you!

Packing: A good rain jacket.

Don’t forget: Your attitude becomes your reality; you decide how enjoyable a trip is. 

Safety tip: Watch out for slick steps in the castles! 

Not really worth the trouble: Anytime there is a Ferris wheel.

From Natalia Cokinos Oakes

Local favorite: Welsh Cakes, like biscuits but cooked on a griddle like pancakes. Lots of locally sourced food and local products. They take care of their environment and their marine life. Wales is great hiking country.