The Chefs Behind Local Foods Group

Seth Siegel-Gardner’s biceps are as thick as tree trunks, sculpted from lifting heavy pots and stirring gigantic bowls. My visit to the Italian-American restaurant Milton’s (5117 Kelvin Dr.) marked the first time I saw the 45-year-old chef in a moment of stillness. He has always been a whirlwind of activity, previously at the now-closed, critically acclaimed The Pass & Provisions and later at his former pizza joint in Marfa. We had never exchanged a word; he has always been fully engrossed in his culinary tasks.

Benjy Levit exhibits a similar intensity. Whenever I spot his trim, silver-haired figure at Local Foods Market (2424 Dunstan Rd.) in Rice Village, he seems deep in thought or focused on the food displays. I avoid bothering him and prefer catching up on the phone. 

The two native Houstonians – each with decades of experience, expertise, and unique talents – eventually teamed up in the fall of 2023 to build a highly skilled crew in the fourth-largest city’s vibrant and hyper-competitive international dining scene. “Milton’s culinary team is so smart,” says James Beard award-winning chef and TV food host Chris Shepherd. “The other night, I felt like I was attending a symphony of parm. I was at Milton’s with my wife. On one side, a guy was eating chicken parmesan. I was having the veal parm. Next to me, a friend was having an eggplant parm. It’s classic, old-school Italian and Milton’s is truly hitting on all cylinders.”

Despite Milton’s immediate success, challenges can still arise, given that Local Foods and Milton’s are not the only venues operated by Local Foods Group. This enterprise, established by Benjy 30 years ago and now led alongside chef-partner Dylan Murray, boasts a diverse portfolio. Benjy relies on Seth, his former consultant, and current culinary and creative director, to oversee menu development, staff, and food quality across the operation, which includes five farm-to-table delis, Local Foods, and two dine-in gourmet grocers, Local Foods Market.

For nine months, Benjy and Seth have navigated a timeline of openings and closings that would leave many operators reeling. Last April, their team launched the Mexican concept Maximo (6119 Edloe St.). In June 2024, they closed their once highly anticipated French restaurant, Eau Tour, just a year after it switched on the burner. That was when Seth proposed opening an Italian restaurant. By September, Milton’s occupied the second floor of the all-day Local Foods Market (LFM). 

MILTON’S Siegel-Gardener says at Milton's, "...there is something for everyone. It’s easy to connect with this crave-worthy style of food. After being in the restaurant business as long as I have, certain things will stand the test of time." Pictured are an array of Milton's dishes, including their signature three-day fermented sourdough garlic knots with burrata and truffles, which sell out quickly; their chicken parm, served with spaghetti and tomato sauce; and cresta di gallo pasta, which was a fan favorite at the now-closed, critically acclaimed The Pass & Provisions. (Photo: Julie Soefer)

Shortly after, Benjy’s laid-back wine bar, Lees Den – named after his mother and located next to Milton’s – closed. A week before Thanksgiving, a second LFM opened on the Rice campus. In January, Benjy’s team relaunched Maximo after a three-week hiatus, debuting a refreshed menu and a new chef. In tandem, Lee's (now with an apostrophe) opened with stylish cocktails crafted by beverage director Máté Hartai, earning it the nickname “The Lounge 2.0.”  The space traded its tropical aura for an airy atmosphere reminiscent of an art gallery loft, evoking memories of the upstairs lounge at Benjy’s iconic restaurant. Known for creative concoctions, Benjy’s lounge was a training ground for bartenders who would shape the cocktail renaissance, including Bobby Heugel of Anvil (1424 Westheimer).

The trend of rapid rebranding has accelerated because of Covid-19. It continues to flourish thanks to the real-time feed and increased visibility offered by platforms like Instagram and TikTok. Restaurateurs must remain agile and responsive to stay relevant and competitive in this fast-paced digital landscape. But Benjy is used to repositioning. Covid forced restaurateurs like Benjy to be resilient and adaptable. He sold produce and grocery boxes at Local Foods locations to boost revenue and support his farmers and suppliers. Midway through the pandemic, the University of Texas marketing alumnae closed his 25-year-old, pioneering namesake restaurant. He remodeled and reopened it as Local Foods Market, aligning with demands and tastes shaped by the pandemic. LFM continues to offer daily specials, unique and hard-to-find staples like olive oils and jams, and curated foodie gifts, all carefully sourced by Benjy, whose background in the grocery business has made him adept at finding these specialty items.

His grandfather founded Grocers Supply, Texas's largest wholesaler, which the Levit family sold in 2014. Benjy, the youngest of six children, entered the culinary world to stand out to his father, Milton. He worked as a host at Bennigan’s and a fry cook at James Coney Island. After college, he went to culinary school in New York, where he dreamed of opening a vegan restaurant. His mentor, the legendary Tony Vallone, encouraged him to pursue his vision. However, the mid-90s weren't ready for a vegan concept, so Benjy pivoted to a farm-to-table menu, a trend he helped pioneer before it became mainstream. Additionally, he introduced handcrafted specialty drinks at his upstairs lounge long before the modern cocktail movement took off. Today, artisanal, fresh-ingredient cocktails are a staple.

These days, Benjy and his team are asking questions like: Will the new Maximo captivate? Can Lee’s recapture the allure of Benjy’s once-famous lounge? Will the secret get out about the recently opened Local Foods Market in the Brochstein Pavilion at Rice University? And how many sourdough garlic knots does Milton’s talented baker need to make to avoid selling out almost every night?

While some see Wednesday as an off-peak night in the restaurant industry, diners flock to this dinner-only trattoria midweek. The aroma of simmering red sauce warms the air, and the decor of mid-century brass, mahogany accents, brick walls, and framed black-and-white photos of the Levit family creates a nostalgic, unpretentious vibe. With stately Corinthian columns and arches, a Brunswick-style pub bar leads to a bright, bustling kitchen where chef Kent Domas presides over the action. Plates of handmade pasta zoom out of the kitchen – bucatini amatriciana, ricotta gnocchi, linguine alle vongole, butternut squash agnolotti.

Teal velvet banquettes encircle diners facing a row of tables on the opposite wall. Above are abstract green-and-gold stained-glass panels by Chicago artist Ben Houtkamp and emerald plaid curtains. The décor combines elements of the ’50s and early ’60s Rat Pack with ’70s preppy influences, yet it comes together seamlessly. Lively chatter and laughter fill the air. By 7 p.m., Milton’s signature three-day fermented sourdough garlic knots with burrata and truffles had sold out despite the price tag of $36. “For now, we’re busy, and that, for me, is a success. We’re a really good restaurant. We’re working on becoming great,” Seth says. 

MAXIMO Chef Adrian Torres leads the kitchen at Maximo, recently rebranded as a progressive Mexican restaurant. In addition to fragrant artisanal corn tortillas, Adrian showcases the prized nixtamalized masa in various applications on the menu under the “Masa y Más” section. Dried heirloom corn kernels from Oaxaca, Mexico soak in an alkaline solution overnight to enhance their flavor and texture before being ground into masa. Pictured are Cochinita Pibil Sope, Tikin Xic Papillote, Masa Cornbread, and Nixtamal Tortillas. (Photo: Carla Gomez)

After the failed Eau Tour, Seth was determined to minimize any setbacks. Seth concluded that the problem wasn’t Eau Tour’s food. It was the genre. Houstonians perceive French food as too high-end and reserved for special occasions. 

“It wasn’t a buzzy opening, whereas with Milton’s, there is something for everyone. It’s easy to connect with this crave-worthy style of food. After being in the restaurant business as long as I have, certain things will stand the test of time,” Seth says. 

For example, the golden triad – bolognese, lasagna, and chicken parmesan – draws guests year-round. For good measure, Seth also included the cresta di gallo pasta with roasted mushrooms in a froth of toasted yeast and parmesan cream. "It was a huge hit at Pass & Provisions, and I knew people would come for it," he says. "Of course, I asked my old partner, Terrence (Gallivan), for permission."

Seth already had the right chef to execute the food: Eau Tour chef Kent, a seasoned kitchen veteran Seth describes as the "real deal." "The way he thinks about food is smart,” he adds. "The idea to expand on the parm was all his. We were going to do just chicken parm, but Kent said, ‘Hey, how about eggplant and veal, too?’"

With a lifetime of experience around cooks, Seth can instinctively spot talent. He started at 14 years old at the original Tony Mandola’s, rolling napkins. His journey landed him in some of the world’s top kitchens, where he cooked for renowned chefs, including Gordon Ramsay and Nuno Mendes. In 2012, he returned to Houston to open the dual concept The Pass & Provisions, which quickly garnered fans. When the restaurant closed in May 2019, he moved to Marfa and opened a deli pizzeria and the highly regarded Marfa Spirit Co. However, his three growing kids' need for better healthcare and education paved the way back to Houston. 

Benjy describes Seth and his team as the “strongest group I’ve worked with in 30 years,” so he didn’t hesitate to rebrand Maximo from modern Tex-Mex to progressive Mexican. Former chef-partner Tony Luhrman stepped away from the day-to-day operations, and they promoted 26-year-old sous chef Adrian Torres to executive chef. “He’s so mature for his age,” Seth says. “We took many of the same steps in formulating Maximo’s menu as Milton’s. But this is his menu. I nudge and give advice, but he creates and executes. His food is very soulful for a brand-new restaurant. He uses a lot of traditional ingredients, combining them with modern techniques. In Mexico City, you can have amazing Japanese food with Mexican ingredients. There are a lot of interesting crossovers. You’ll get that at Maximo.” 

In addition to fragrant artisanal corn tortillas, Mexican-born Adrian showcases the prized nixtamalized masa in various applications on the menu under the “Masa y Más” section. Dried heirloom corn kernels from Oaxaca, Mexico soak in an alkaline solution overnight to enhance their flavor and texture before being ground into masa. Adrian uses the masa to crust halibut and make cornbread, tostadas, and tetelas – triangular-shaped pockets stuffed with beans, herbs, and salsas. On Maximo’s new brunch menu, the Xochi and Belly of the Beast alumnae created an eggs benedict with sopes, short rib, and mole hollandaise. Caviar is optional.

“The way he combines flavors is unique. He’s going to be a rock star,” Seth says of Adrian.

Seth and his team like to use the Local Foods Market on Rice campus as their office. It’s a hybrid gem for Local Foods fans because the menu features all its signature dishes, with the bonus of a few pastas from Milton’s, tacos made with tortillas from Maximo, pizzas, and a great coffee bar. But the best part is the surroundings.

“It’s located in the Brochstein Pavilion, which is like a beautiful glass jewel box in the middle of campus,” Seth says. “It’s just fun to bring the family there on a beautiful day, get some food, and then sit on the grounds or inside, surrounded by these smart college kids. They haven’t been jaded by the world yet. It’s a legitimate spot.”

Seth, Benjy, and their team can breathe a little easier after all the closings and openings. However, there are always new ideas floating, but “we haven’t signed any leases,” Seth says.