From Russia with love
It began and ended with jetlag. What came between, though, proved something of an adventure, a leap of faith into a culture and city that were at times more than a little overwhelming.
In early May, St. Petersburg introduced itself to my brother Anthony, a 21-year old junior at Duke, with a partially dilapidated apartment building and crippling fatigue. “I hoped the bed was at least nice,” he told me, grimacing slightly at the thought. “It wasn’t.” It was a jarring welcome to the city that could have placed a dark cloud over the remainder of the trip. Yet, within a few days, the subpar living conditions were the last thing on his mind. Anthony immersed himself in the Russian language and culture, visiting the city’s museums and becoming more confident with the native tongue.
Six weeks later, I was welcomed to the city with a distant sound of smooth jazz and a golden-wrapped chocolate on my pillow. The St. Petersburg Four Seasons, located in a renovated 17th-century palace, proved significantly more welcoming than Anthony’s sparse accommodations. My family arrived on his last days of classes, primed to join him for the conclusion of his St. Petersburg adventure and offer him a much-needed shower.
The city, previously known as both Leningrad and Petrograd, is a testament to Russia’s colorful history. Bearing distinctive marks of both the Russian empire and the Soviet Union, it’s a multifaceted city that resembles no other in setting or atmosphere. Almost alarmingly quiet even at its most crowded, St. Petersburg is far removed from the hustle and bustle of an American city of its size. It bears a welcoming, calming atmosphere, reaching out to newcomers like a hug from an old friend.
Defined by its past, yet a force in the modern age, St. Petersburg carves out a niche for itself unlike any city I’ve come across. It’s a big city without the big-city feel, a historical goldmine without the corporate touristy feel of many of its more Americanized counterparts around the world. If you’re willing to venture down the road less traveled, St. Petersburg is well worth the jetlag.
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