Roots Revisited: Unearthing family ties in Greece

Beneath the blue Aegean sky, the island of Patmos rises from the sea, a storied tapestry of faith and stone. For Carol Senkel and her family, this rugged jewel of Greece is not just a holiday destination — it's a pilgrimage back through time, to the roots that have held firm across countless generations. 

Carol’s parents are both of Patmian heritage; her mother, from four generations back, and her father, from seven. Her first journey was at the age of 12, when her parents took her for the first time to meet her relatives — most memorably, an uncle who is a Greek Orthodox monk. And not just any Greek Orthodox monk, but one assigned to the Cave of the Apocalypse, where St. John wrote the biblical Book of Revelation.

Her parents took her to Patmos every couple of years after that, and the island became a part of her. When she married, she and husband Larry kept up the tradition, and they continued it after daughter Natalie and son Nick were born. The children grew up knowing their ancestral home. 

Patmos has long been a Christian pilgrimage destination, especially during the Holy Week celebration, a deeply spiritual time marked by much ceremony and prayer. 

“It's just spectacular there,” said Carol. “It’s referred to as the second Jerusalem for Easter, and people from all over the world come to view all the services during Holy Week and then the Easter service.”

Every year, on the Thursday before Easter, or Maundy Thursday, the monks reenact Jesus’ washing of the disciples’ feet. For years, her uncle, Efthymios Koutsanelos, played the lead role, that of St. John. Carol always wanted to go, but as an honors English teacher at Lamar High School, it was hard for her and for the family to get away at Easter time. After her retirement, she and Larry finally were able to go for Easter in 2014, and she shared the story in Cathy Gordon’s article, Patmos Paradise.

She and Larry would talk about taking their grandchildren one day, but the time never seemed right. Sadly, Larry passed away in 2016. But the family kept talking about making that dream come true.

Uncle Efthimio, Mary Senkel, Carol Senkel, Natalie Kirklin, and Lauren Kirklin have a lively conversation in Uncle Efthimio’s living quarters in the monastery of St. John the Divine.

Uncle Efthymios was turning 98, and she wanted to be sure they would have a chance to meet him while he was still his sharp and active self. There were other reasons, too, said Carol. The extended family is very close, and they share good times and memories that go back generations. They also share some lovely homes, such as the family beach house on the side of a mountain where she stayed as a child, with an enormous vegetable garden, fruit trees, and a vineyard. That house has been in the family for four generations. 

“The mulberry tree that my mother and her seven siblings played under is still standing,” said Carol.

She also wanted the grandchildren to see the family homes built in the 1700s that are located in Chora, the town at the top of the mountain where the monastery that is dedicated to St. John is located. The homes are passed down to the next generation with the furniture, accessories, and family portraits, so it’s a bit like being in a family museum.

“The lesson that I wanted to relay to my grandchildren is that we do not tear down our homes but instead value our heritage by preserving what we have,” said Carol. “It is comforting to have consistency and to have the ability to return to the old and familiar with both family members and their homes.”

Finally, this past summer, the time was right. "We've been talking about it for years, and we've been waiting for the youngest to be old enough to handle the trip," said Carol.

Natalie was excited about being able to take her three children — Annabeth, 11, Lauren, 9, and Mac, 7 — for the first time. Carol rented a beach house for them to stay in, which had a large garden and fruit trees similar to the one she grew up with.

“It was really special for them to get to meet the extended family that all lives there, and to expose them to the culture and the heritage and the family and the food, the language, all of it,” Natalie said. 

Annabeth was especially excited. She remembered all the stories she’d heard about the island, the beautiful beaches, the wonderful food, the raucous parties.

Nick, Mary, Susie, Woody, and Carol Senkel enjoy time together. 

Natalie recalled her mom talking about the Greek tradition of breaking the plates when she was young. 

“She used to love to talk about these big, fun parties that they would have with all the family gathering and the music and the food, and that they would get so carried away and that they would smash plates,” said Natalie. “And then the next day, her dad would have to go into town and buy all new plates.”

Those kinds of parties don’t happen anymore since the plate-smashing generation grew older and the government outlawed plate-smashing, said Natalie. But the liveliness and love of good times continues, and that was one of the things Annabeth liked best. “They had a lot of personality,” she said of her kinfolk with a laugh. “And some of the older relatives, they were still full of energy and always wanted to do things.”

Indeed, that’s one of the perks of island life; Carol said it’s not at all uncommon for people to live long and healthy lives, so much so that the island could easily be considered what’s known as a “Blue Zone,” a region where people not only live longer but also enjoy a high quality of life in their old age.

But there were so many things to love: swimming, snorkeling, catching fish with nets; the beach house with the huge garden; and, speaking of beaches, the white sands and crystalline waters of the Aegean, a big contrast from the Gulf Coast beaches she was used to in Galveston. 

“It was just very beautiful,” she said. “It didn't look like it did here.”

Nick and son Woody, 8, shared their experiences and special moments from the trip, as well. Nick, who traveled with wife Mary and daughter Susie, 6, reminisced about unique family dinners, engaging with local characters like his cousin Jimmy, who owns a restaurant, and the importance of heritage and family. In particular, a long and memorable dinner at Jimmy’s Balcony stood out, with the restaurant closed down for the whole extended family. Jimmy cooked fresh codfish and made everything homemade and served them himself.

“It's situated at the top of the island, and you get this fantastic view,” Nick said. “But beyond that, Jimmy himself is a very colorful character, so he's always entertaining to witness in action.”

Nick brought along his mandolin and organized a sing-along one special night he will never forget.

“Woody and his cousin Mac wound up learning “Take Me Home Country Roads” with me,” he recalled with a smile.

But especially meaningful to him were the times they spent with his great-aunt, Maria Valvis, also in her 90s, and Uncle Efthymios.

“It was kind of a blessing just to see them and be with them and to go to a church service in the Cave of the Revelation,” he said, “and just to be a part of something that has been there for a thousand years now is just a really special and striking experience.”

For Carol, the trip of a lifetime met all her hopes and expectations. She was gratified to watch as her children and grandchildren soaked up the unique island culture, coming to understand a different set of values and priorities than those emphasized in the U.S.

“I remember my first trip, and then when we took my daughter-in-law the first time, she and I both had that same experience of where it's life-changing,” she said. “You just realize what's really important in life, all about relationships and just enjoying life. Slowing down a little bit and just enjoying nature… and then, the spirituality of the island makes it unique.”

Tips for Travelers

By Carol Senkel

Worth the splurge: Renting a home vs. staying in a hotel. Renting a home offers a more authentic experience.

Don’t miss: 1. The Cave of the Apocalypse - the cave where St. John the Divine, one of Jesus’ disciples, was exiled about 2,000 years ago as a very old man. It was there that he wrote the Book of Revelation, hence the name The Apocalypse.

2. The Monastery of St. John the Divine, founded in the year 1088.

3. Tiganakia beach on the small island of Arkoi, located about 11 km southeast of Patmos. Other favorite family beaches:  Kambos, Agriolivadi, and Leivadi Yeranos beaches.

Favorite restaurants: Vangeli’s, Pleiades, and Aloni

Packing: Don’t bring overly dressy clothes and shoes. And don’t forget athletic shoes and a hat!

Safety tip: Patmos is a safe island; however, it’s best to stay with your group and not venture off on your own. Also, travel ratings are not always accurate.

Unexpected hit: Day trip to Leipsoi, a chain of small islands that dot the Southeastern Aegean and form the northern part of the Dodecanese group of islands.