Arnaldo Richards’ Picos

One offering at the beloved, now-on-Kirby restaurant is Chilean sea bass with mussels, clams and head-on jumbo Gulf shrimp.

Many remain nostalgic about the old Pico’s location on Bellaire. But upon entering the new locale, it’s hard to fault owner Arnaldo Richards for moving into this graciously appointed, hacienda-inspired space made warm and inviting with coral tablecloths, ceiling beams and dark furniture. His food, too, has been tweaked, often with winning results. The tomato salsa sings. The ranchera salsa smolders with charred tomatoes. The chicken consommé soup is still a cure for the blues, swimming with pulled chicken, onion, cilantro, Mexican rice and avocado. A dash of Serrano pepper provides a mild, welcome kick. And his signature huachinango a la Veracruzana (red snapper) is elegantly draped with an exquisitely light tomato sauce flavored with green olives, capers and chiles güeros.