Pho Huynh closed on Milam Street, then reopened as Huynh Restaurant in old Chinatown. The food, still under the guidance of Mama Van Bui, shines on contemporary white plates. She specializes in dishes from Hue, the culinary core of Vietnam. Delicate steamed-rice crepes glisten with well-seasoned pork and black mushrooms. Her boluc lac explodes with flavors of pan-seared tender beef threaded with smoky jalapeño and caramelized garlic.