Going to Galveston

Cousins Caroline Nielsen and Riley Pratka (from left), whose mothers grew up in Galveston, are busy on the beach.

With Galveston just 45 minutes away, it’s easy for any Houstonian to cross the causeway, take a deep breath, and feel at home. But for some of us – born-on-the-islanders, or BOIs, and former residents – going to Galveston really is going home. For local perspective on what to do on the easy-going island in Houston’s backyard, read on.

Ashley Pratka was born in Galveston and goes back often with her husband, Al, to the bay house that’s been in his family for over 50 years. “I appreciate Galveston in a different way now,” Ashley says. “Growing up there, it was a city. But Al feels like he grew up there too, just more on island time. So now I can go down there and slow down and turn off. We do a lot on the water, fishing and water skiing. Al would move there if I let him.”

Ashley, a former director of development at MD Anderson Cancer Center, says their favorite things to do “are not that touristy. We do random things like go to Tom’s Thumb [Nursery] and make terrariums, or we’ll go to Rosenberg Library [the oldest public library in Texas]. It’s just beautiful, and I can remember as a child walking around on that third floor and love sharing it with my kids. Schlitterbahn [Water Park] is always a hit with the kids, and so is Magic Carpet putt-putt. Just don’t go when it’s too windy.

“Also, there are golf camps all over Houston, but we really like the one at the Galveston Country Club because it’s a smaller venue.”

Keith Huang, a partner and general manager of Jinya Ramen Bars and a BOI, says when he and his family “convene in the G Rock, we always make it a point to have lunch at Queens. Their chipped beef po-boys are legendary.” And, he says, “Some of the best Tex-Mex food in the city is inside a grocery store. No kidding!” He’s talking about El Mercadito y Taqueria (Broadway at Ave. J). For brunch, Keith likes Sunflower Bakery & Café. “This is a weekend brunch hotspot,” Keith says. “Their cheesecake is something else. I have had many slices of their cheesecake.”

Keith says his crew likes to fish for crab off the 39^th Street rock jetty. “Go to Wal-Mart. Buy some fishing weights, string, a net and some raw chicken. Tie the weights and chicken to the string and cast them out. Wait a few minutes, and a blue crab will be grasping onto the chicken. Slowly pull in the crab and scoop it up with the net. We always throw them back because they’re too much trouble to cook.” And, “If you or your kids are into skateboarding, the city has a really great skate park,” the Johnny Romano Skate Park on 27^th Street.

Leigh Fowler, a mortgage loan officer, lived in Galveston for five years as a child and returns now to her husband Fritz’ family’s house there. She says, “We normally don’t eat out, but when we do, it’s to The Spot with the kids or Gaido’s because it’s a tradition. I have a soft spot for the history.”

Keith Rassin, an entrepreneur who grew up on the island, says, “We go to Galveston to see my parents and to eat.” His favorites? “Abuelitas for a monster Mexican breakfast.  We pick up burritos for like $3. Shrimp ‘N Stuff for lunch. Their po-boys and shrimp gumbo. And Saltwater Grill for dinner. There’s an Asian fish that they have that’s in a soup that’s freaking great. We do that and then we go wakeboarding in English Bayou or Offats Bayou [the bodies of water on either side of 61^st Street as you drive onto the island], and that’s about it.”

For golfers, Keith suggests the Moody Gardens Golf Course. “It’s beautiful, it’s a great course and it’s a good price. Anybody can go.”

One more thing: “You have to drive sideways on the Cherry Hill thing” ­ – a paved “hill” on the east end of the island that, when driven on, feels very steep and sideways, like your car might tip over.

Riley, Ashley and Ellie Pratka (from left) celebrate Riley's birthday at their family's bay house in Galveston.

Kelley Sullivan is a BOI and rancher who lives both in Galveston and Houston. Her advice: “The best free boat ride on the coast is the ferry! You can park and walk on for a round trip.” Be sure to watch for dolphins. After the ferry ride, head to The Strand near the Galveston Ship Channel off 25^th Street, in the heart of the island’s historic district, and “visit some unique shops, especially Strand Brass, Tola and Gracie’s,” all owned by BOIs who returned to Galveston after college.

“Also,” Kelley says, “visit the Texas Seaport Museum. It’s always more fun to see the island from a different perspective in the water. Plus it gives people a glimpse of how important the maritime industry is to Galveston and the state of Texas. There’s a database where people can search for family members who arrived in Galveston. One thing that Hurricane Ike taught us is that 85 percent of Texans – all Texans – had ancestors who arrived in the U.S. through Galveston.” The museum is home to the 1877 tall ship Elissa and is operated by the Galveston Historical Foundation.

Kelley also recommends planning a visit to coincide with an ArtWalk. Sponsored by the Galveston Arts Center, ArtWalk present the opportunity to stroll through Galveston’s historic district and see the latest art exhibits at many galleries, non-profit spaces and retail spaces all in one night. This summer, the walks will be held Sat., July 11, and Sat., Aug. 22, from 6 to 9 p.m.

For dinner, Kelley likes The Steakhouse at the San Luis Resort, rated one of the top steakhouses in Texas.

Kate Lykes, also a BOI and a mother of four, says one of her children’s favorite things to do is chase crabs on the beach by flashlight at night. For restaurants, she says, “Shearn’s [at the Moody Gardens Hotel] and Rudy & Paco are well-renowned and earn it. Number 13 is terrific and is waterfront.” And for more casual restaurants, Kate suggests Farley Girls Cafe and Mosquito Café.

Molly Holub grew up in Galveston and is a mom of three and an attorney. “I make my Houston friends go with me to Sonny’s,” she says. “They still remember me from when I waited tables there in the summers during law school. I feel a bit like a celebrity and everyone enjoys the Western Shrimp Buns (fried shrimp with barbecue sauce, cheese and bacon on a bun), gumbo and muffalettas. My kids now understand the concept of a dive.”

Like Kate’s, Molly’s children also like to hunt for crabs, but they go during the day. “If we go around July Fourth,” Molly says, “we bring buckets to Pirates Beach to dig for hermit crabs. I don’t know why they’re so prolific that time of year – is it mating season? – but it provides younger kids hours of entertainment.”

Kenny Herz, an attorney, was born on the island and goes back often. When asked what his favorite things to do in Galveston are, he says, “Does swim in the backyard and not leave the house count?” Then he gets serious. “We like to have holiday celebrations like The Fourth with friends and family there. We like to take naps. We like to go go-karting [at the Galveston Go Kart and Fun Center, on the west end of the Seawall]. Everything’s easier there because it’s all right around the corner. We’ll eat at one of many restaurants – Mosquito Café, Gaido’s, Moody Gardens, Sunflower Café, Michael Burger, Mario’s, Benno’s.”

And then, Kenny says, he and his family will go to La King’s for ice cream, shakes or candy, which is the same thing every other person interviewed for this story told us. Now that’s the local scoop.

More ideas from the Galveston Island Convention & Visitors Bureau

Bryan Museum - See the world’s largest collection of Southwestern artifacts, art and documents at Galveston’s new Bryan Museum. The collection spans 2,500 years with 70,000 objects. thebryanmuseum.com

Beach Band concerts - Frank Incaprera, who celebrated his 90^th birthday last year, and his big band play a mix of show tunes, big band and jazz in the Sealy Pavilion across the street from Rosenberg Library. Concerts are free. Check galvestonbeachband.org for show times.

Galveston Island Brewing - Take a tour of the brewery and learn the process “from grain to glass.” After the tour, sample beers, let the kids play in the playground or snag “sundowner seats” to watch the sun set. galvestonislandbrewing.com

Moody Gardens Bands on the Sand - Every Friday and Saturday at 6 p.m. through Aug. 8, Palm Beach at Moody Gardens has bands and fireworks. Watch and listen from Palm Beach or a boat in Offats Bayou. moodygardens.com/calendar/bots

Moody Gardens SpongeBob Subpants Attraction - Go on an “undersea” voyage through a 4-D movie. At each show, costumed SpongeBob characters introduce the film. moodygardens.com/subpants

Nick’s Redfish Pool Bar - Nick’s (formerly Casey’s next door to Gaido’s) has installed a new pool. Visit the restaurant and order lunch or dinner, and you can use the pool and hot tub all day. They’ve also got live music. nicksgalveston.com/redfish

Outdoor movies and music at Saengerfest Park - Catch a movie or a concert al fresco on the Strand. Check galveston.com/saengerfestpark/calendar for a schedule.